theotherlex: (Default)
Actually, I have to start with yesterday, before I get to todays topic. Yesterday I left Darmstadt and arrived in Frankfurt. It was a local train line, so I didn't have to get off at platform 104 of the Hauptbahnhof, but actually made it to the stop for the youth hostel before it. Very good, I thought, since you have to get away from the train stations. (Although my free map of Frankfurt advertises the pleasures of the airport, and recommends a visit. I will be spending close to three hours there on Saturday morning anyway.)

In the evening I saw Von Suchen Und Finden Der Liebe (of the seeking and finding of love). Which is a recent German film, with Moritz Bleibtreu, who was the boyfriend in Run Lola Run, Uwe Ochsenknecht, who was in the film I saw for German Orientalism last semester. It's quite an odd film, sort of conventional love story, set to the story of Orpheus in the underworld, and featuring a fantstically camp Hermes. I really can't describe it, but odd, and moving, and German. (I understood some things that would not be able to be translated into English, go me!)

Today I went to galleries. I went to the Shirm Kunsthalle and saw their exhibition on 'The Naked Truth,' an exhibition featuring Klimt, Kokowska and Schieler, artists from Vienna in the late 19. early 20. century. (Which is when I like my art and design to come from). It also looked at the scandal of Alfred Loos's unornamented building, and his treatise of the unimportance of having buildings with ornaments on them. ('Ornaments are unnecessary to the enlightened man,' or something like that.) The artists were about challenging the taboos and traditions of the time. The exhibition was not suitable for children under the age of sixteen.

Then I had lunch. I got to have a proper creamy potato soup. I also had a cup of coffee, which I proabably shouldn't have, but oh well. I don't think I'll be able to sleep anyway, at least one of the other girls in the dorm snores. (And other has a clock radio which keeps finding static, and they keep sending text messages.)

Then I went to the Design Museum to pass the next three hours. I really should have spent longer there, but I didn't know it was going to be so good. They had a special exhibition I didn't really get to see because I didn't know it was there until it was too late. But it was about Post-Modern design, which, in a reaction to modernism and Loos, tries to put as much irrational ornamentation on to anything it can. It was actually quite an interesting exhibition, because it talked aobut how people really go for things that look interesting or new. Swatch is able to keep selling the same watch components over and over again because they look different (two designs a year). It is also worth noting that they had four Apple designs (a palm pilot, a notebooky/palmpilot thing, the first Apple Mac, and a raspberry iMac), but nothing from IBM.

They also had a exhibition of Arabic art, for all times. Actually of Arabic caligraphy, whith follows the same idea of strict discipline, tradition and mastery as Asian caligraphy. And they talked about current Arabic artists look back to tradition, rather than setting out to break it. They said it was surprising the range of things that could be done within such strict confines. But really, necessity is the mother of invention; or, the rules help, because they give you an idea of what else there is, and something to bounce off.

But it fell on me (that's the German expression, and I learnt it reading Harry Potter) as I was walking through the 18. Century furniture that the problem with minimalist art is that it isn't art at all. And I don't mean that I say it isn't art. I mean in the sence that it is actually design. The 'artworks', those empty metal boxes (and the other exhibition at the Shrim, which I didn't go to), aren't created hands on by the artist, but designed. This is a good thing, because we no longer have to ask 'what does it mean?' or 'what is the idea behind it?' (and listen to a lecture about the comodification of sexuality, or the distruction of personal identity, a lecture we can't relate to the art). Instead we get to ask 'what is it for?'

Jewellery is designed to be worn and be admired and look pretty. Minimalism art, though, seems to be designed to sit in a museum (even art is not created for galleries). And museums aren't real spaces.

It's tied up with the dreadfully attractive phrase 'form follows function.' (Alliteration and good rhythm, but note that form comes first in the saying, please.) Which leads me to my first conclusion, nobody knows what a teapot look like.

A teapot is something that you use to make and pour tea. Most people would be able to tell you what a teapot was for. Most people wowuld be able recognise a picture of a dog as a picture of a dog, even if they hadn't seen the picture (or even the type of dog) before. Computers can't do this. If you want to design a teapot, you can start by saying that teapots have a handle and a spout (and are short and stout, of course). But if you just stick the elements of a teapot together, it will certainly look like a tea pot. But it may not actually be able to pour tea (at least not well. Like the space ship that was sent to Krikkit in Hitchhikers Guide to the Gallaxy). But if started from a form, any form you like, a cow, a house, a face, a random lump of clay, then you could adjust it until it did pour tea. And if it pours tea, then regardless of what it looks like, it is a tea pot.

(Like Kublai Kahn and Marco Polo's model cities in Invisible Cities. Perfect adjusted enough to be lived in (and obviously a model), or only the inconsistencies and impossibilities, adjusted enough to exist.)

I hope some of that made sense. You can just say, 'hmm, very interesting, Lex' when I get back and then you don't actually have to pay attention to it. :-)

I have plans for tomorrow and the second half of Friday. I probably update again then, Friday afternoon, before I go to church and then take myself out to a nice restuarant. I'll see what happens to me on Thursday. I like Frankfurt, I think it's a good city, despite the proliferation of post-war buildings.

(Oh, I found the old and good looking parts of Darmstadt yesterday when I didn't get off the bus in time and walked through more (but different) back streets to get back to a bus that would take me to the station.)
theotherlex: (Default)
I like Darmstadt. Although I have no real idea why. It isn't particularly pretty, neither does it have a good collection of old or interesting buildings. In fact it seems to have a rather good collection of 60s high rise buildings. But despite the fact that just about everything is shut on Sundays, it's cold, and the streets occasionally have cobblestones, it reminds me a bit of home. That is, the Brunswick part of home, which generally isn't considered stunning. (Sorry.)

I found the main museum today, which has the Joseph Beuys installation. (Which is why I came to Darmstadt in the first place.) It didn't open until 11, so I was able to walk around a bit, and find a cafe to have morning tea in. (And I did get sick, so it was nice to be somewhere warm).

The museum itself covers a large range of stuff from Roman and Egyptian art, through design painting and sculpture to the 21 century. They have, at the moment, a special exhibition of Simon Spierer's sculpture collection, which you're allowed to walk through like a forest.

Argh! I was once again overcome with the desire to study art properly, and be an artist, and design things, and know about it all. (Art is the subject which suffered the most from going on the exchange.) They also had some old religious art, from the 1400 etc, and a exhibition (last day today) of Italian works on paper, which needed the special low lighting and intense peering at. I prefer the sketches to the paintings themselves, because there's more life in the sketches. The artist hasn't had time to remove themselves from the piece by careful planning and reworking. I also liked Marcel Duchamp's bicycle wheel upside down on a stool.

But the Beuys was quite effecting. It's an installation in a series of rooms which have been 'wallpapered' with hessian. Most of the rooms contain large, narrow glass cabinets of things. There are carefully arranged piles of felt, old tins, bottles, a sketch-o-mat, typed lists (which don't make sense in the themselves). There is also a room of large piles of felt with brass boards covering them, and another felt suit hanging grom the wall. It was disturbing on some level, because of the things look old, and brown and slightly rotten. Or they're models of things, or somehow else a juxtoposition of objects that doesn't sit right. But also more because there was definitely an idea there, he was definitely thinking something, but it's not a thought anyone is going to have, or be able to express.

(That also what I like about a lot of Duchamp's stuff, somehow it represents an idea that could not be represented in any other way. Where some modern art is to obviously an essay on consummerism, and a boring one at that.)

I then had a late lunch at the second place open on Sundays, a popular cake cafe. Although I had potato soup. It was Hessen popato soup, a stock soup with potatos and sausage in it, as opposed to the southern style of creamy mashed potato. Still food obsessed, hmm. Breakfast at the hostel is good. All the museums here are closed on Mondays. (I knew I wanted the possibility of two days here.)

So I'm on to Frankfurt tomorrow, which may actually mean less posting. The hostel has the internet, but it may be the eight euros an hour type, which I'm not prepared to pay for. I have a list of things to do in Frankfurt, which includes eating SpƤtzle (if I can find any), and drinking some applewine. Also more art galleries, I hope they don't just make me restless. I will definitely remember to take a proper piece of paper with me, I had to make notes on the back of an old Deutsch Bahn travel plan today.

P.S I've discovered my optimism. Despite nothing really going right yesterday, I though it was good day. And despite being sick today (it was minus three at about 4 o'clock, too), and facing a rather alone evening, today is good too.

P.P.S The museum also had a natural history section, which I didn't really look at. But one section included exhibits of stuffed animals in rooms painted to look like their natural habitat. All the animals looked a little bit faded, it seemed very odd, and not a little depressing. (Put me in mind of the Arrogant Worms's 'Low Maintanence Zoo'.)
theotherlex: (Default)
There actually seems to be a rather large number of Call Shop (which is where you find the internet in Germany) in Darmstadt. I passed several on my way from teh train station. My suitcase is lighter now, because I've moved the three and a half kilos of gummibears into my back pack. My shoulders are a bit sore.

I walked half way to the youth hostel before thinking that if I was walking in the right direction it was because I was walking parallel to the street I wanted and would never find it. So I caught a tram back to the main train station, discovered the map I had walked past early and caught another tram back to where I had started from to continue my journey. But the youth hostel is very nice.

Had brunch with M today before he drove me to the station. I had a British Breakfast, or at least, the German version of one. It was very nice. But, of course, came with Earl Grey tea. I haven't had Earl Grey tea for weeks, and it tastes a bit strange now. Although that may just be the brand.

Yesterday M showed me around the university a little bit. They have some fabulous old buildings, and some not so fabulous ones as well, of course. Because Heidelberg and the Uni were built and grew together the Uni is pretty much spread out around the old city. I also saw the fabulously decorated large meeting hall in the Old University, and the students' prison. Until I don't know when (possibly 1935) the Univeristy had full jurisdiction over its students, its own courts and prisons. There's some great grafitti there. 'Richard Kohl, imprissoned 3. II. 98 to 2. III 98.' and 'Oh, sweet Emmy, how difficult things are here without you.' (In German, of course).

Also, we had lunch at the Mensa. I love Mensas. German Univeristies feed their students cheap (but good) food. At Heidelberg you pay by weight. And M said that they have different food in the evenings to what they had during the day, it's open until 11 at night, and serves cocktails after 7 o'clock.

I forgot my Rough Guide to Germany at Jana's, and it arrived in the post today, but I didn't hear the doorbell, and M was coming back up the stairs from checking (for the third time) so they took it back to the post office. So I've looked up the tourist sights for Darmstadt and Frankfurt. I am looking forward to my last week, a little bit because it is the last one. I think I have the brain space left to go to the all the good looking museums.

(Which, of course, I will then describe to you.)

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theotherlex

July 2010

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